the top that stand out to me are utena, lain, boogiepop phantom, noir, haibane renmei, mawaru penguindrum and evangelion. orange is one i saw most recently and really liked also, but i haven't come across any that i have enjoyed as much as the aforementioned.
oh shit special shoutout to when marnie was there. loved it.
I know I am going to open a big can of worms, but being active in the goth subculture for so many years and knowing people in the scene personally who have been part of this thing since the early 80s, I say the whole thing about gawf being a counter-culture misanthropic youth fashion trend is wrong and some cliché that the media came up with during the age of the Satanic Panic and ran with it.
It's been (and will always be) about the music and not so much the clothes or hating everyone (lol, most old wavers and goffs I know are so perky you'd think they are all untrve poseurs if you didn't knew any better). I know that's an argument many people do not like, because that means it takes more than heavy eyeliner and tacky shillstar clothes made in Bangladesh - such as actually liking some post-punk and goth music. And many people think they need that dreaded "G" label to prove how different they are from mainstream society and will fight tooth and nail that they "deserve" the label because of how they dress, which is something I don't get.
Also I have never met any of these people who wear 800 euros and more on their skin in the actual real life. These people primarily exist on the web, where they belong in the same bin with every other cancerous social media clown and influencer, or they walk around big festivals to get photographed (but never actually engage with anyone or pay attention to the music). I feel most of these "goff" people who are sponsor for some brand are just some regular alt chicks who realized that selling themselves as rebellious, edgy person makes them somehow different (and thus more authentic) than the hundred other people who do the same, but for some "normie" brand. Then there are the few cases where people from the scene did become greedy and partake in this shit. But right now there is a nice backlash against it, so it#s not like everyone is okay with it. In fact, people have been arguing a long time that it#s not a fashion contest.
Most people at goth (and adjacent) events, club nights and concerts are piss poor or know to spend their money for more important things. If they wear that awful blunder then they usually buy it secondhand. And considering how the scene is slowly falling to gentrification, many don't even dress up anymore, and that's totally okay. It's only in web communities that people get so uptight and act like assholes. Which isn't so surprising, but that's also why I really recommend to get outside more and leave the internet for some time. Ever since I started to go out more again, meeting real people and reducing my online presence to a bare minimum, I have been much happier.
Anyway, my stupid cents on this topic, since it seems to have made some big waves online. And I am glad it does. I think the same can and should be applied to any music scene, culture or just society in general; one doesn't need to worship some fucking brand to feel better about themselves and looks aren't everything. Sadly people give influencers way too much credit, even when they know that these people are paid by companies to sell their trash and will base their entire self worth on some criteria tailored by the folks that run good old capitalism.